Despite a recent spate of old testament type of weather our ranchers, growers and vendors have come through with the goods. Geography, know-how and seasonality all play their part in how fresh food lands in our Markets in winter. Spend a minute with Tom DeNoble of DeNobles and Alan Rousseau of Pine Mountain Ranch explain how seasons differ from region to region and product to product.
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Jim Dixon is the owner of Real Good Food and it’s no lie, his foods are real good. PFM is a fan of good food in all of its glorious forms. At the heart of our mission is to support our region’s farmers and food producers and one way we help do this is to provide our shoppers with what we call a Full Market Basket experience. This means that shoppers can find high quality, authentically sourced ingredients and prepared foods that enhance and complement all of the farm-fresh produce and proteins filling your basket.
Jim collects killer food and oil from all over and sells them at our Market once a month. This weekend he will be bringing Extra Virgin Olive Oil* from California & Italy, Hand-harvested sea salt from Portugal, Organic farro from Washington, Organic heirloom variety brown rice from California, Hand-harvested oregano from the Italian island of Pantelleria, Hand-harvested fennel pollen from Tuscany, Crystal hot sauce from New Orleans (Mardi Gras is coming up, don’t embarrass your gumbo with tabasco).
Last time I saw Jim he was telling me about a recent trip to Italy to meet up with his food suppliers. He was kind enough to share a few pictures from his trip. And then even threw in a few recipes for kicks. Visit Jim’s blog to learn more about the food and where it comes from or stop by and say hi to Jim at the Market this Saturday between 10-2 .
Words and Pictures by Jim Dixon
*Extra Virgin
Tom Mueller’s excellent new book Extra Virginitycovers a lot of what’s right and wrong about the world of olive oil. Anyone who likes to eat should read it.
Lax Labor Laws
I’ve been telling the same story to my customers for nearly a decade. Most of what’s labeled “extra virgin olive oil” really isn’t. True extra virgin olive oil costs more because it requires a lot of care to produce. Extra virgin olive oil is an agricultural product, and the people who grow the olives and press them into oil suffer the same market vagaries as farmers who grow vegetables.
Albert Katz, one of my suppliers in California, lost a third of his crop a few years ago when freezing weather hit just before harvest. This season the cold came in the spring, damaging the buds that grow into olives, and his crop is less than a fifth of normal. Katz oils will be short supply this year.
Lack of regulation and dishonest producers do as much damage as bad weather. Factory farms and industrial processing means cheap oil, and lax law allows the label “extra virgin” to go on olive oil that’s been deodorized, refined, or cut with cheaper seed oils. A bottle of fake “extra virgin” olive oil can sell for much less than it costs to produce the same amount of real extra virgin.
Pure Stuff
Recipes
Add about a pound of shredded sprouts. To shred: trim the ends if they look worn out, split top to bottom, lay flat side down and slice thinly. Cook the sprouts, leek, and bacon for another 5 minutes, taste for salt (the bacon adds some), and eat.
Roasted Winter Squash with Balsamico
Laura and Deeana served us this in Modena. The simple squash highlights the balsamico, and the vinegar transforms the humble vegetable. Use one of the larger, pumpkin-like winter squash; they’re a bit dryer than butternut, delicata, or acorn.
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Near Perfect Weather
Last Monday 60 brave souls helped clear out ivy, blackberries and a bunch of unwanted things from the lot that is the home to the King Market.
Thanks to the cold, damp blistered and sore volunteers for all their efforts. The following recap of the day is from the King Neighborhood Association’s Blog:
The community turned out on Monday, January 16th on the Martin Luther King Jr. Day of Service to make a dent in the weeds and trash at King School Park. English ivy had taken over the south side of the parking lot at the King Neighborhood Facility and was hiding all manner of things thereunder. A robust group of neighbors, King School PTA members, and invasive species foes dug, hacked snipped and pulled all day. The result is that the strip of land is now nearly completely cleared and several truck loads were hauled away.
Eradicators
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by Jaret Foster, Senior Market Manager, Portland Farmers Market
Moving into the third week of our Winter Market I have been watching the weather closely. The early part of this week brought snows to my northeast Portland yard and the following days rains nearly drowned my little garden. By Wednesday morning I was beginning to hear from vendors about their needing to potentially cancel with us for the weekend; some due to snows and power outages in and around Hood River and still others with historically high waters down the Valley.
Thursday I received a text from John at Gathering Together Farm that included a photo of the high water around their packing shed and a skeptical note on whether or not they will be able to get from the shed to the road (don’t worry–John assured me today that he’ll be there!) Tammi Packer also called to say that not only was their market truck buried under four feet of snow but their bakery had been without power for two days. Other vendors called to ask if the market was even going to be open (it is). Tomorrow’s weather looks like rain; this is the PNW in January!
PFM does have guidelines in place for weather related Market cancellations and will certainly close if it appears that vendors or shoppers would be endangered by our remaining open. This would be predicated as far in advance as possible by a “Severe Weather Warning” from the National Weather Service (NOAA). Dangerous high winds, ice, measurable snows, or extreme temperatures are all taken seriously. In my time with PFM we have only canceled a handful of market days. Once for snow and twice for extreme weather in June and July. In June of 2009 a tornado touched down in the Valley and brought insane winds and lightening to our Thursday evening markets. We closed those with white knuckles and gritted teeth.
Vendors are always encouraged to be safe if travel to market seems at all hazardous. Thankfully, so far this season we have only had rain to contend with in Portland. Unfortunately for our rural neighbors the precipitation has had adverse affects on their lands and businesses. The following photos and links are illustrative of this and can better describe the perils of farming in the PNW than I ever could.
I am constantly amazed and humbled by the lengths that our farmers go to in order to bring such beautiful food to the market each week. Weather and pests routinely threaten their land and therefore their livelihood. The circumstances of this week only make their hard work, sacrifices and tenacity that much more apparent. Thank you, farmers, for braving the elements in the name of good food and sympathies to those with flooding or snow damage, including GTF & Packer Orchards who both provided photos for this piece.
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PFM’s Winter Market will be open this weekend and those to follow; rain or shine!
Thank you to Camille Storch, Sara Lopath and Harry Lehman for the photos of Gathering Together Farm and to Tammi Packer for sharing her photos of Packer Orchards.
For additional photos of GTF under water, click here.
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By Anna Curtin, Soup Diva, Portland Farmers Market
Like any enthusiastic eater worth her salt, I’ve always loved soup. A number of years ago, I took my love to the next level. Once the weather turned cool and the soup cravings started, I decided to honor soup with its very own party. Better yet, I asked invited guests to pay their respects as well.
For that first annual soup party, guest were asked to bring the strangest, tackiest, ugliest, wildest, most unique bowl they could find and trade it for another equally outrageous one of their choosing before eating their way through the buffet of soups. Not so surprisingly, the bowls that arrived reflected the guests who brought them, sparking conversations and laughter as we took stock of the collection. The bowl with the floating eyeball was just the thing for the aficionado of all things macabre, the golfer’s mug with golf club handle went straight to the self-appointed king of the links, and the delicate, hand painted pottery bowl was a perfect match for my potter/knitter/crafter/all around DIYer friend.
As the “mmmmms” multiplied and each bowl was filled, emptied and refilled for hungry mouths, I was warmed by the simple beauty that is soup. There’s a flavor for any appetite, a recipe for any season, and a bowl for any personality. So go ahead – stock up on the best the season has to offer and set your inner soup diva free.
Greens & Beans Soup
Serves 4-6
This is one of my favorite go-to soups for its simplicity, flexibility and use of the cool weather greens that grow so well in our corner of the world. The flavor is best when you use freshly prepared dried beans, but canned beans will do if that’s what you have on hand. The flavor also improves the next day once the ingredients have had time to blend. In fact, it’s the perfect make-ahead dish for your next soup party!
1 bunch (about 1#) hearty greens, chopped (see note)
1 leek (white and pale green parts only) or 1/2 medium onion, chopped
1-2 cloves garlic, minced (about 1T or to taste)
Pinch of red chili flake (optional, to taste)
1 T olive oil
1 Qt chicken or vegetable stock (your soup will taste better if it’s homemade)
4 C cannellini or other soup bean
2-3 inch Parmesan rind (optional)
1/2 C Parmesan cheese, grated
Salt & pepper
Garnish: additional grated cheese, lemon wedges, smoked paprika, croutons
1) Warm the oil in a heavy bottomed soup pot over moderate heat. Once the oil is warmed, add onion (and chard stems), cooking for 5-8 minutes, until softened. Add garlic & chili flake. Cook for a minute until fragrant.
2) Add the rest of the greens, stock, 2-3 cups water, and cheese rind. Cook 10-15 minutes, until greens are tender.
3) Add beans, stir occasionally & cook for a bit to blend the flavors. Stir in Parmesan and flavor with pepper & salt as desired. Serve with additional grated cheese and or lemon wedges for garnish.
The note: Almost any of your favorite greens will do - chard, kale, escarole, mustard, raab, etc. Stem the greens as appropriate. If you are using chard, separate the stems out, thinly slice and add with the onion or leek in the first step.
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Recipe by Katherine Deumling
Friend of the Market, Katherine Deumling, is a very good cook. She creates a world cuisine that draws heavily from the abundance of local foods. And better than knowing how to cook, Katherine teaches people her craft emphasizing good humor and by using ingredients that are on hand. Her enterprise, Cook with What You Have, hosts classes at Deumling Kitchen Stadium in inner SE Portland. You can check out two upcoming classes below this recipe or head over to her website to learn more.Winter Squash Curry
Once the squash is roasted this soup comes together in 15 minutes so roast the squash while you’re having breakfast and reading the paper and have dinner almost ready when you get home. And it’s very flavorful if you use good squash like kabocha or buttercup or butternut.
2 small butternut squashes or cabocha or other winter squash (or one large one)
2 – 4 teaspoons red or green curry paste, (Thai and True is a good local brand or Mae Ploy)
1 tablespoon coconut oil or olive oil
1 can coconut milk (full fat)
3-4 cups veggie broth (or more)
Greek or whole-milk yogurt or sour cream mixed with chopped cilantro, lime juice and salt for garnish
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cut the squashes in half and scrape out seeds and strings. Cut into quarters and generously drizzle cut squash with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Roast until soft. Scrape the flesh out of the peel and put aside.
Heat the oil in large soup pot over medium-high heat. Sauté the curry paste for just a minute until fragrant. Add the roasted squash, coconut milk, and broth, bring to a boil. Simmer for about 10 minutes. Blend with an immersion blender (or in food processor) until smooth. Adjust seasoning, garnish and serve by itself or over rice.
Pantry Stocking & Quick Meals
Saturday, January 21, 11:30-1:30 pm
What should you stock so cooking in the moment is doable and satisfying? How to make/prep things ahead of time so a variety of dinners are easy to pull together later in the week. We’ll talk about systems, planning and good technique. With those tools your confidence to cook without a specific recipe will grow and the whole thing becomes more fun!
Cost: $45
Winter Greens: Raw, Cooked, Quick, Slow
Saturday, January 28, 11:30-1:00 pm
There are so many gorgeous greens in the markets this time of year and so many delicious ways of preparing these nutritious powerhouses to convert any kale skeptic. And for those of you who already love them, learn a great variety of techniques so that you never get tired of them.
Cost: $40
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Information, Photo and Motivation provided by Diego Gioseffi
There’s no better way to match the spirit of Martin Luther King Day than with a day of service to the community by volunteering. There will be a second round on the invasive species removal at the King Facility Parking Lot, January 16th from 10:00-4:00. This project involves the removal of invasive plant species and habitat restoration through planting of native species. We hope that new landscaping will attract native birds, discourage litter, prevent run-off, create shade, and provide natural beauty for residents and visitors. As well as provide a source for environmental education to King school students.
The lot, at 4815 NE Wygant (at NE 7th), is recognizable as the home of Sunday’s King Market. The lot is City owned but is located next to a school: Because it lives in the bureaucratic world between Portland Public Schools and the City’s Parks and Recreation, no one has done any maintenance for more than 20 years.
English ivy took over, blackberries brambled, and then pests moved in. Last year we decided it was time to solve the problem by removing the nesting area, so I started to look for help. I contacted Water and Soil Conservation District (We applied for a grant from Water and Soil Conservation District to plant native species. If we get their support, we can plant by spring), then the King Neighbor Association helped sponsor the project. AmeriCorps seem very interested in helping us, hopefully they will send some hands on Monday. At the same time the King School PTA will be coordinating a cleanup, weeding, graffiti removal project on the school grounds, playground, and local area.
I'm Coming After You Next, Ivy
The Portland Farmers Market is also planning to bring a crew, a tent, snacks and hot cider. Whole Foods has also pledged pastries, snacks and drinks. PFM’s Trudy Toliver explains the market’s commitment, “This is exactly the kind of community project we are proud to support. During Market season, this is the neighborhood’s weekly gathering place. Helping make our weekly home lovely with renewed landscaping will benefit us all.”
We would love to have 20 more folks helping us (bring gloves). We are also looking for someone to watch kids so we can provide day care for the volunteers. Please join us! Stop by or email me (Diego) at newpochutla@yahoo.com and let me know you’re coming by. Check out the King Neighborhood Association Facebook page for updates on our project. www.facebook.com/kingneighborhood
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The opening of our Winter Market has been well covered. You can read stories at the following links:
Photo by Betsy Pappas
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Opening Day
by Jaret Foster, Senior Market Manager of Portland Farmers Market
I wake up and see it’s 6:30. Oh good, I can roll over and get some sleep, except wait, Winter Market opens today! I had meant to get up at 6 to get a nice slow start to the day but somehow slept in and now I’m rushing to get out the door. I grab my bag full of extra clothes and shopping totes, water bottle and rain gear. I check my phone and see that it’s supposed to clear up later and no rain. I send a quick text to Jamie, our Market Coordinator, letting her know of the good news about the weather and that I am on my way. The streets are largely empty on a Saturday in the dark of morning and I make it to PSU in good time. I drive onto the park blocks and drop off a couple of A-board signs we made up to remind shoppers that we are at Shemanski Park, seven blocks to the north.
Once I get to the market site I am relieved to see that there is only one vendor beginning to setup. It’s Roger from Springwater Farm and he’s only just gotten there. I park my truck and walk over to greet him. He says he’s real happy with his double space but is going to let Kathryn, Chef at The Farmers Feast, set up her side. Kathryn has been cooking with Roger’s mushrooms and produce and will be doing hot food with Springwater for the winter. I had seen their opening menu and look forward to trying one of the pork sliders and seasonal minestrone. She and I used to work together at Café Azul a decade ago and I know that girl can cook.
I look up the way and see that Jamie is just pulling up with our truck. I put my stuff down on the benches and start to help her get unloaded. The first thing we have to do is get the signage and traffic cones out to close Main Street. Otherwise we’re going to have some very confused and potentially dangerous early morning drivers on our tailgate.
Luckily the next grower to arrive is John from Gathering Together Farm. GTF is a sizable operation with a large double space and brings a 25 foot semi truck full of produce and market canopies; that takes care of half of the street closure. I greet John as his market manager Lane arrives and get them situated with where their stall is going to be. They set to work unloading their extensive display and I return to our truck in search of sidewalk chalk.
Jamie has most of what we need unloaded and in the street and I ask if she’s seen any chalk. ”Um, maybe in the bungee bucket” she says. I check there and hop in the back of our 15 foot box van. No chalk. With the impending arrival of 30 or so vendors all with one question on their minds (where’s my spot?) sidewalk chalk is near paramount. “Details!” Jamie reminds me but I believe I have a chunk in my bag, just enough to mark out ten foot intervals and leave scribbled abbreviations of the vendors name on the bricks of the market square.
More vendors start to arrive and it’s starting to feel like a marketplace. Denoble’s Farm with their supersized carrots and parsnips. Rick Steffen with a mountain of Brussels sprouts and squashes, and Alan with Pine Mountain Ranch all the way from Bend with coolers full of wild game meats. I keep thinking I can step away and handtruck some signage up the park blocks but keep getting pulled back into the “where’s my spot, where do I park, where do I pee” conversation. I laugh and wish that my ever informative emails were read with interest.
About 8:30 or so I am really ready for a cup of coffee. Jamie says she’ll pick one up while she’s dropping off signage on Broadway. I welcome that immensely. Unfortunately we did not get any coffee vendor applications for the Winter Market. I even called up a few roasters I know who might want to join us with no luck. I am still hopeful that we’ll be able to get one there; it was a popular question from shoppers and vendors throughout the day.
Once most of the vendors are in their stalls I walk around the market and take a moment to step outside of each entrance. I’m looking to see if the walkways and entrances are open and inviting. Vendors have a habit of what I call stall revving, where they place their displays, canopies and tables as far out into the aisle as possible vying for maximum exposure. This makes for narrow walkways and blocked neighbors. Most look good but I have to give a special hard time to Mark at Tastebud; his canopy leg is right smack in the center of the southwest entrance. He sees me coming and grabs a few mismatched pieces of steel to fabricate a makeshift short leg, backing the whole thing up by four feet. I stand by his wood oven and warm my hands and chat for a bit but he and his staff are looking a bit flustered trying to get ready so I make my way back up to the Manager’s Booth.
It’s nearly 10 and the market looks great. Vendors are chatting amongst each other, shoppers are beginning to fill the aisles and lines are forming at Verde Cocina and Groundwork Organics. Trudy, our Director and Mona our Communications Manager have arrived and are talking with Dave, who does our social media and is setting out a tripod to catch a video of the opening bell. I ask if Trudy wants to do the honor but she says it’s all mine.
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The Agricultural Justice Project and Organically Grown Company proudly announce the domestic fair trade certification of two LADYBUG brand farms, Gathering Together Farm in Philomath and Spring Hill Farm in Albany. By recognizing their workers’ rights, treating them with respect and making the commitment to paying living wages, these farms have earned the Food Justice Certified label, the first time any Pacific Northwest farm has become certified. This certification guarantees that buyers pay fair prices that cover a farms’ full costs of production, allowing them to enhance the quality of life for everyone involved in the farm.
Food Justice Certification is domestic fair trade with integrity. It is a third party certification system based on standards created by stakeholders, farmers, farm workers and social justice advocates who all contribute equally to the process. The rigorous verification includes interviews of the workers by trained representatives of a farm worker organization who speak their language.
Gathering Together Farm is a 50-acre, certified organic, family operation located in Philomath, Oregon growing over 100 varieties of 50 different vegetables for fresh sales and seed. Owners Sally Brewer and John Eveland work with their crew of more than 100 employees to supply produce to their wholesale and retail customers, 300 community supported agriculture (CSA) members and an on-site restaurant. “Our employees are the heart and soul of GTF, “says Eveland on why they applied for Food Justice Certification. “We are very proud of our team and want to be a great employer. Being Food Justice Certified allows us to communicate this commitment to the world.”
Spring Hill Farm is a 45-acre, certified organic, family operation located in Albany, Oregon with 45 employees that grows over 60 crops, specializing in leafy greens. Being able to provide a good place to work is important for owners Jamie Kitzrow and Lisa Schwartz. Jamie says they wanted to create a place “where people want to continue working for us year after year”.
In announcing the official launch of the Agricultural Justice Project domestic, fair trade program, Michael Sligh, of RAFI-USA, a member of the AJP Management Committee, declared, “Just as the certified organic label took years and input from thousands of individuals to become the gold standard for how to grow and produce our food, the creation of Food Justice Certified has involved a broad base of committed individuals and groups from all sectors of the food system. The process has been transparent and rigorous and aims to set a high bar for integrity and fair relations among the people who grow, process and sell our food. A truly digestible food product is one in which farmers, farm workers and those who sell the fruits of this labor all work collaboratively.”
The Food Justice label is available both to farms and other food businesses, from seed to table. It can be used as an additional claim along with certified organic or as a stand-alone label for advanced, integrated pest management farms.
The Food Justice Certified label rewards honest and open relationships throughout the food chain. Its third party verified seal certifies that the highest standards of equity and fairness have been met on farms, in food manufacturing and in stores. The standards cover:
* Farmers and all food system workers’ rights to freedom of association
* Fair wages and benefits for workers
* Fair and equitable contracts for farmers and buyers
* Fair pricing for farmers
* Clear conflict resolution policies for farmers, workers and buyers
* The rights of indigenous peoples
* Workplace health and safety and decent farmworker housing
* High quality training for farm interns and apprentices
* The rights and protection of children on farms
* High quality training for farm interns and apprentices
* The rights and protection of children on farms
* The elimination of the use of toxic materials
To read the full standards, go to www.agriculturaljusticeproject.org.
About Organically Grown Company
Founded in 1978, employee and grower-owned Organically Grown Company (OGC) is the largest organic produce distributor in the Pacific Northwest. From its warehouses in Portland and Eugene, Oregon, and Kent, Washington, OGC serves over 200 natural and fine foods stores and restaurants. More than 90 percent of OGC’s product line comes directly from over 400 growers and over 30 % of products sold come from Northwest farms. OGC has been recognized as a leader in sustainable business practices including sourcing 100% renewable energy in facilities, support for fair trade and charitable giving. www.organicgrown.com
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